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Unknown PdB 4
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Corrugated Roof Area
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Bernal Sanders S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Colonel of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feel the Bernal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kernal of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown PdB 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown PdB 2 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown PdB 3 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown PdB 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown PdB 5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Up or Down Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 20.74852, -99.94732 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 672 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Start a few feet right of the previous route in a groove/trough.
Climb past two bolts then red, gold and blue cams to get you to the 4th bolt of the previous route to the left to reach its communal anchor.
Location
There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures).
Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.
Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.
At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet.
Start a few feet right of the previous route in a groove/trough. This groove/trough is about 20 feet to the right of the 20-foot high drop off.
This route roughly follows the red dotted line on the overview picture of the face.
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