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Routes in West Face

Bernal Sanders S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Colonel of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feel the Bernal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Filo Noroccidental S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kernal of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown PdB 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown PdB 2 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown PdB 3 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown PdB 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown PdB 5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Up or Down Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 120 total, 6/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Start atop boulders and near a tree at the left side up the upper portion of the face. This spot is about eight feet above a big drop off at the base of the cliff (the chasm mentioned in the description of the last route).

P1: Climb a clean buttress past seven bolts to an anchor below the orange ceiling (5.7; 20m).
P2: Climb through the ceiling at a right facing corner (5.8+) then up an easy groove past several more bolts to an anchor (15m).
P3: There is at least one more moderate pitch above (three bolts are visible from the P2 belay anchor).

Note: The first two pitches can easily be combined with a 60m rope and 10-12 quickdraws. You'll either need to do two rappels with a single 60m or one rappel with two ropes from the P2 belay anchor.

Location

There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures).

Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.

Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.

At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet.

This climb is the leftmost of the routes on the upper (right) section of this "corrugated roof" wall.

Start atop boulders and near a tree at the left side up the upper portion of the face. This spot is about eight feet above a big drop off at the base of the cliff.

Protection

Bolt protected with two bolt anchors.

If you do P1 & P2 as a single pitch, bring a couple shoulder length slings to extend a couple of the bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.8
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.8
This is the second climb from the left on the upper tier. Follows the right facing corner as shown in yellow in the photo for PdB3. We called it 5.8. Shares anchor with PdB3. Dec 8, 2016