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Unknown PdB 2
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Corrugated Roof Area
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Bernal Sanders S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Colonel of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feel the Bernal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kernal of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown PdB 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown PdB 2 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown PdB 3 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown PdB 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown PdB 5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Up or Down Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 20.74852, -99.94732 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 760 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Start atop boulders and near a tree at the left side up the upper portion of the face. This spot is about eight feet above a big drop off at the base of the cliff (the chasm mentioned in the description of the last route).
P1: Climb a clean buttress past seven bolts to an anchor below the orange ceiling (5.7; 20m).
P2: Climb through the ceiling at a right facing corner (5.8+) then up an easy groove past several more bolts to an anchor (15m).
P3: There is at least one more moderate pitch above (three bolts are visible from the P2 belay anchor).
Note: The first two pitches can easily be combined with a 60m rope and 10-12 quickdraws. You'll either need to do two rappels with a single 60m or one rappel with two ropes from the P2 belay anchor.
Location
There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures).
Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.
Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.
At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet.
This climb is the leftmost of the routes on the upper (right) section of this "corrugated roof" wall.
Start atop boulders and near a tree at the left side up the upper portion of the face. This spot is about eight feet above a big drop off at the base of the cliff.
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