Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Unknown, likely 2015
Page Views: 132 total · 4/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

This is the rightmost route on the lower face. It is just left of an obvious chasm. Climb up a pretty long way to reach the first bolt (PG/R). Continue up the face, supplementing the two bolts with some medium sized cams.

Location

There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures).

Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.

Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.

At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet (the Up or Down Chimney). You can down climb (a bit tricky with a pack), do a short rappel from the nearby tree, or backtrack about 60 feet and follow a path downhill that loops back around to the lower, leftmost portion of the face.

The routes in this entire sector are described from left to right, so this route is the fifth route from the left margin of the wall on the lower face. This is the rightmost route on the lower face. It is just left of an obvious 20-foot high chasm mentioned in the approach as a possible down climb.

While this approach sounds complicated, once you've done it a time or two, you'll find you can get to this face from the main hiking trail in about five minutes.

Protection

Three bolts, red and gold Camalots and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.9 PG13
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.9 PG13
Believe this is actually the 3 pitch route described as Unknown PdB1. Start is as described. Quite thin (we called it 5.9) until the third bolt, then 5.7. Did not climb P2, but it looked like .10 something. Dec 8, 2016