Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 9th Street

"That's What She Said' S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolt Sandwich S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bring Your Lunch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cleft Lip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Community Service S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked Lip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank Addiction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crank Addiction Direct S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Crystal Method TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a V11 8A
Cub Scout Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Madness S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Genius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hankerin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hankerin for a Crank Addiction S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Like Pull'n a Tooth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Like pull'n teeth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Interruptus T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reverse Traverse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shino S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
THC S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
THCrystal Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
That's a Noyce Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vile of Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 145 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ken Noyce on Mar 26, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route follows the obvious flake system out of the cave, the hardest move on the route is probably the one getting off the ground, but the redpoint crux is right at the third bolt making a rightward traverse before gaining the easy ground past the last bolt to the chains. Fun and interesting movement throughout the overhanging lower portion of the climb. Lots of drop knees and even a knee bar or two will help you surmount this route.

Location

This route starts just a tiny bit to the left of the poison ivy in the cave. The start is shared with THC which begins with the first bolt line right of Crystal Method. It starts on the obvious chalked undercling with poor feet. Climb the first two bolts of THC, then continue straight up to the third bolt of Crystal Method, finishing up with a bit of a runout to a lone bolt in the easy but kind of awkward corner system above.

Protection

4 bolts to chains

Photos

- No Photos -
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
So, most of the variations you've added that link up different routes have not been named, just referred to by rating, and those names you've given are as good as any. I know when I was in the process of trying to update the Ogden guide, I just made up names for them, but that's irrelevant now.

This particular route, however, that starts the hard undercling and climbs the overhanging flake system, was a recent independently bolted route put up by Curt Schoenfeld and originally finished with the bulge on "Like Pulling Teeth" and did not go out right. I forgot the name, however, though "The Bullnose" jumps out at me, and haven't seen Curt for a while to ask.

Chuck Odette added the shiny bolt that connects this over to Crank Addiction, that this route and Like Pullin Teeth can finish as a variation instead of doing the bulge, but maintaining the same grade, IMO.

Edit: I guess the original route is posted as "THC" but the route up the flake with new bolts and the undercling is new since the Robb guide. Apr 27, 2016
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
 
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
 
Not sure if this has been named before as I'm sure someone has climbed it before me. If you know of the actual route name or the first ascent let me know so I can update the info. Apr 4, 2016