Avg: 2.5 from 11
votes
This route follows the obvious flake system out of the cave, the hardest move on the route is probably the one getting off the ground, but the redpoint crux is right at the third bolt making a leftward traverse before gaining the easy ground past the last bolt to the chains. Fun and interesting movement throughout the overhanging lower portion of the climb. Lots of drop knees and even a knee bar or two will help you surmount this route.
This route starts just a tiny bit to the left of the poison ivy in the cave. The start is shared with THC which begins with the first bolt line right of Crystal Method. It starts on the obvious chalked undercling with poor feet. Climb the first two bolts of THC, then continue straight up to the third bolt of Crystal Method, finishing up with a bit of a runout to a lone bolt in the easy but kind of awkward corner system above.
4 bolts to chains
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Layton, UT
Ogden, UT
This particular route, however, that starts the hard undercling and climbs the overhanging flake system, was a recent independently bolted route put up by Curt Schoenfeld and originally finished with the bulge on "Like Pulling Teeth" and did not go out right. I forgot the name, however, though "The Bullnose" jumps out at me, and haven't seen Curt for a while to ask.
Chuck Odette added the shiny bolt that connects this over to Crank Addiction, that this route and Like Pullin Teeth can finish as a variation instead of doing the bulge, but maintaining the same grade, IMO.
Edit: I guess the original route is posted as "THC" but the route up the flake with new bolts and the undercling is new since the Robb guide. Apr 27, 2016
Las Vegas, NV
Probably the most confusing crag I've ever been to lol. Felt like the whole crag was grid bolted and a variation within a variation within a variation. If anyone knows what climb I did above please let me know!
Fun spot never the less. May 7, 2021
Layton, UT