Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
|Type:||TR, 25 ft (8 m)|
|Page Views:||524 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Maurice Butts on Aug 1, 2020 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Noticed this route when we setup our top rope for Nerve Damage and this route was much more in line with the anchor. We were able to climb Nerve Damage and then this route back to back, making it a nice bang for our buck setup wise.
Since we didn't have any trad gear we hiked up around the back of the rock face to get to the anchor. Up top there is a large rock with a bolt that we used to lower to the route anchor so that we could set it up safely.
A different start to Nerve Damage as it merges half way up. Fairly obvious start at the bottom with a nice jug and left hand pocket for a few fingers. Throw a left foot out and catch it on the out cropping rock. From here I had to stiff arm with my right and bring up my right foot. At this point I had to shimmy up with my feet a bit as holds are fairly sparse. There are two pretty good crimpers on the right, and after a bit of shimmying I could grab with my right and then match hands on it. Feet placement at this point are pretty tricky and I think I was more or less smearing. After that you can either try and make a big move to the nice jug, try continuing to smear up, or use the fairly good hold to the top left that's apart of Community Service. That hold specifically probably keeps the route in the 10a/b range. If you do it without I'd say 10b range due to the cruxy-ness of it. From there the jug leads into the last half of Nerve Damage.