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Routes in 9th Street

"That's What She Said' S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolt Sandwich S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bring Your Lunch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cleft Lip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Community Service S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked Lip S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank Addiction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crank Addiction Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Crystal Method TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a V11 8A
Cub Scout Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Madness S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Genius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hankerin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hankerin for a Crank Addiction S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Like Pull'n a Tooth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Like pull'n teeth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Interruptus T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reverse Traverse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shino S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
THC S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
THCrystal Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
That's a Noyce Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vile of Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,803 total · 17/month
Shared By: jeffozozo on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Because this route is not bolted, and there are no anchors at the top, it does not get climbed that often.

To set up the TR, build an anchor with trad gear at the top. There are two good boulders you can sling as well. Drop the anchors that attach to the rope through the obvious "V" in the rock.

The bottom of the route has several different paths. One climbs out over a bulge and then moves right into a little dihedral. The next follows the dihedral (to the right of the bulge) from the ground up.

Then it is a little slabby up to the headwall which overhangs. The overhanging part is the crux. There are a couple of cool moves up to some big holds. There is a nice gaston in the middle. Moving left makes it a bit easier.

Location

This route is just to the right of Cubscout Corner on the far left hand side of the wall. It is also just to the left of Midnight Cowboy and Mr. Interruptus. The overhang at the top of the wall with the V shaped notch at the very top is the distinguishing mark.

Protection

No pro. build an anchor on top and set up the top rope.

Photos

wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.9
This route has now been bolted and has two nice shiny chains on top. Coming up to the headwall, the bolts veer to climber's right where you can jug-haul on the arete to the right of the last bolt. This variation is not a 5.10. It would be if one were to head more directly to the chains or followed the crack system at climber's left. Jeff can clarify further.

Fun climb. Careful not to z-clip when you're at the chains after the last bolt. Jul 10, 2010
Kat Johnson  
 
Also known as "the route we climb when someone has already claimed Cub Scout Corner." Fun jug haul up until the last ten feet. Can't finish it, have to cheat and follow the ledge to the right. Fun route to learn to lead on though.
Jun 14, 2014

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