For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pegasus

Asleep in the Parthenon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Bridle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ride On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Saddle Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son of a Sea Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spread Your Wings T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take the Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Sonia Buckley, Tony Bubb, March 2016
Page Views: 83 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 8, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Closed for Raptors, Feb1-Aug1 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

To 'Take the Bit' between one's teeth is figuratively to throw off restraints and proceed on a headlong course, to take control.

Start off on some lower angle rock, and climb that past a shrub to reach a slightly offset splitter that connects to the hanging, left-facing dihedral up top. The wide section up top is not as hard as it looks. A large block in it is trapped there and could not be dislodged when we tried. It is easily avoided and seems to present no danger.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route climbs some junky, low angle rock to reach a reasonable splitter crack. Ascend that up to and through the left-facing dihedral at the left (West) side of the Horse's Head, 3/4 of the way up Pegasus.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard light rack + a few extra cams in the 2" +/- range. A medium nut and off-fingers cam (1-1.5") can protect the crux entering the wide part. A gear belay is needed up top, and you walk/scramble off from that to the West and then back South.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Take the Bit

Printer-Friendly