Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pegasus

Asleep in the Parthenon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Bridle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ride On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Saddle Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son of a Sea Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spread Your Wings T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take the Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Sonia Buckley, Nov. 2015
Page Views: 138 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Closed for Raptors, Feb1-Aug1 Details

Description

This is a fairly good climb with solid rock and good gear to be had.

Start on the 40' slab at a point left of immediately below the upper cracks and climb up and right into the cracks. There is no gear here at all, but the climbing is no harder than 5.6 and probably only 5.5 if you find the right line.
Reach the cracks and place gear, climbing up to what looks like a steep section up top but turns out to be barely past vertical, at worst. Top out in this, and build a gear anchor or scramble back 7 meters to a tree to belay.

Location

This is the right-most route on the lower portion of Pegasus. The climbing is pretty good and generally on very good rock. Start up and right on a 40' slab to reach a crack system that splits the upper headwall in a surprisingly mellow and pleasant fist crack.

Protection

Gear to 4". The anchor up top is a #4 and #3 Friend + one other cam, or at a tree some way back from the edge.

To escape, go W/SW to a large tree on the edge with webbing and a rapid link and rap 105'. If you are on a 60m rope, watch the ends carefully or rap slightly uphill.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Asleep in the Parthenon

Printer-Friendly Guide