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Routes in Choss Garden

Beata S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Benefactor, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Dynamite S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daisy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Depth of Field S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garden Party S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gardener, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mellow Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nettle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pitbulls on Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touchy Subject S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Touchy Tuco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tuco's Nettle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up in Arms S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steve Edwards, Mick Jurynek
Page Views: 244 total, 11/month
Shared By: steve edwards on Feb 5, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Bouldery, techie route on the left, with a wicked finish.

Worth some comments. It wasn't set up to climb on chains but this was facilitated by the climbing. The first boulder problem is straight off the ground, and you want it protected, as well as the second clip, which is hard. With belay/gear hanging bolts off the the side, it made sense to have chains. The last bolt, too, is a very hard clip followed by a boulder, and I wanted a fixed draw. That left only a couple, so chained the whole thing.

The bad bolts is almost certainly ok to fall on, since the rock underneath is solid, but this was a sketchy part of the wall with a lot of flakes. Not sure what came off but it could affect the climbing here. Some cleaning would certainly reveal a path that will go. There are a lot of flakes and the basic rock is solid, you're just dealing with flakey-ness that is pretty normal at this crag.

This is a very good route. It starts and finishes hard, and the "rest" isn't all that awesome, so there is definitely a pump factor. I like it more than any 12d in the canyon.

Location

Far left side

Protection

Chains

Photos

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Todd H
Sandy, UT
Todd H   Sandy, UT
Tried this yesterday and got stumped after clipping the last bolt. I expected the finishing crux to be hard but this was unreal for the grade, assuming the bolt line isn't misleading. Seemed as if a crucial crux hold had broken off... Sep 16, 2016