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Routes in Choss Garden

Beata S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Benefactor, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Dynamite S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daisy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Depth of Field S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garden Party S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gardener, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mellow Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nettle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pitbulls on Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touchy Subject S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Touchy Tuco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tuco's Nettle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up in Arms S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 1,542 total, 20/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Classic name, great line, quality climbing (so what if it's short). The Benefactor takes an attractive, brown patina-looking swath up the center of the Garden. More pumpy than technical or powerful, this route might be considered a soft 12b by some, but I'll stick with the rating given by the first ascensionists. Lowering off the anchors leaves the climber a good 15 feet out from the base of the route. This may be one of the best 12b's in BCC, better than Savage Dance, which gets 3 out of 3 stars in the Ruckmans' 1998 guide.

Location

Between Mellow Gold to the left and Up in Arms to the right. Look for a belay bolt, with two bolts above leading to an undercling flake, followed by the patina-like section above.

Protection

Draws. Descent is from a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Thanks for the upgrades. Definitely needed. Great route. Feb 5, 2016
There is now a belay bolt to protect the belayer on the exposed ledge.
There is also a new 2 bolt anchor at the top instead of the shitty old slings around the tree. Not sure why this route never had its own anchor??? Sep 23, 2015
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great climb. Pretty consistent, hard climbing from the beginning. You get a slight rest at a good undercling, but you are barely off the ground at that point.

I agree about the belay stance. Really steep on slick quartzite. It would be nice to have a belayers bolt right at the bottom to go in direct with. I felt like I might fall and pull my climber down with me at any moment. Next time I might bring some trad gear to setup a belay anchor.

Also chains at the top would be nice. The cord that was up there looked like it had been baking in the sun all season. Someone left a draw on the last bolt which I also left to give me a little more peace of mind while lowering. Oct 20, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
My only complaint is the bad belay stance at the base of this one. All the other routes have nice flat stances with a belay bolt. May 8, 2012