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Routes in Choss Garden

Beata S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Benefactor, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Dynamite S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daisy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Depth of Field S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garden Party S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gardener, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mellow Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nettle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pitbulls on Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touchy Subject S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Touchy Tuco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tuco's Nettle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up in Arms S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 135 total, 2/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 26, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

In a place called the Choss Garden, almost any route could be named Touchy Subject. A climb that only gets better with time, expect no relief on this sustained and continuously line.

Under a blanket of choss hides some very solid rock, finding whats solid is the initial crux. Sucker holds and very small crimps fill this thinning route. Start off with some small delicate moves and bust up a crack feature to a few big edges, grab a quick rest and keep going. From here a few more difficult moves lead to the real crux. Finish strong on some slightly easier terrain and gain a ledge at a double bolt area. Continue up the original line clipping a hidden pin and finish right at shared anchor on top of the buttress.

Update: A majority of the bolts on this line have recently been replaced (2012) and a newer, more bold extension has been added. It climbs up and left using a crunchy arete feature after the pin, this extension inarguably increases the rating. Finish at an updated chain anchor. Exciting!

Location

Touchy Subject is the third route in from the right on the south-end of the Choss Garden. Its the route that starts off just left of a small pine and is between Nettle and Daisy.

Protection

Eight or nine quickdraws.

Photos

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
A bit of clarification: the original line heads up and right from the intermediate anchor, aiming for a pin hidden inside a large mouth-shaped pocket then into a crack. It finishes at a 2 bolt anchor shared with Nettle. Probably 11+ including the finish, maybe 11c to the intermediate anchor.
The variation avoids the pin and shoots up and left along the arete , clipping a new bolt and sharing the anchors of the Daisy extension. The moves are pumpy and the rock is solid. The FA apparently went left of the arete in the shallow dihedral using sloping holds, the grade being really hard 11. I found that way to be way stout and instead stayed right of the arete on the face, pulling one really hard move while seriously pumped. The shuffle along the upper edge of the buttress to reach the anchor was engaging. Grade-wise, 11d+/12a seemed justified considering the bottom delivers a mean pump. Edit: here it is, Touchy Tuco

Of note, the original line (as shown in the guidebook) tops out and the rock is no worse than anywhere else on the wall. Lowering off the intermediate anchor should be recorded as a non-send on 8a. Leaver-biner factory! Feb 22, 2014
Bolts and hangers have been replaced as of 11/4/12. Nov 5, 2012
If you watch your partner lead it first you'll see where the good holds are and make this a super high flow jug-to-jug-fest. Its cool when you can turn your hips and skip the hard holds! Also, its not necessary but nice to have a cam or two for the belay. Oct 2, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Older bolts make this one a bit more nerve racking, could use some updates. The hangers are those thin sheet metal looking items. There is another weird anchor on this one, two bolts of different ages offset and not equalized. Or continue up to find the hidden pin and on up to the top anchor. recommend stopping before pin. Apr 19, 2012
John Steiger
  5.11c
John Steiger  
  5.11c
This has cleaned up very well; no “blanket of choss” here. The last clip (above the double bolts) is a hidden Lost Arrow driven straight down; looks solid, but I don’t think you want to whip on it. Sep 4, 2011