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Routes in Choss Garden

Beata S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Benefactor, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Dynamite S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daisy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Depth of Field S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garden Party S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gardener, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mellow Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nettle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pitbulls on Crack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touchy Subject S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Touchy Tuco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tuco's Nettle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up in Arms S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mick Jurynec, November 2009
Page Views: 722 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This is the bolt line between Mellow Gold to the right and Pitbulls on Crack to the left. Of the four 12a's on the Choss Pile, this route is probably a touch easier than Mellow Gold, but harder than Depth of Field and Pitbulls. Almost three stars IMO.


As of this post, the third bolted line from the left of the crag (the first two are equipped with chain draws).


Draws, chains on top.


- No Photos -
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Meant to add an anchor but Mick started ultra running and I adopted two cattle dogs, effectively ending my run as "mayor". You can reach over and clip the Mellow Gold anchors, so this was never a safely issue.

As I told Boissal, fix anything. Glue, whatever. Just keep the routes nice. This cliff will continue to exfoliate. It's the nature of the "choss garden", but worth a little effort for such nice climbing.

Splitting hairs on where to go. We had a couple of sequences. One harder, one scarier, but not really scary at all. Feb 5, 2016
This route is called 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'.
Bolted and FA by Mick Jurynec November 2009.
The FA says the route went straight up at the upper bulge, although going a bit left or right is slightly easier.
I'll see if I can get the FA to add any more comments. Jan 18, 2016
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Excellent line with a couple of cryptic cruxes separated by a full rest. I think it lands somewhere between Depth of Field and Mellow Gold in difficulty, solid 12a or maybe 12-.
One of the holds in the first crux is wiggling and might need to be glued in order to keep the sequence from going to 12hard. I found the upper bugle to be brick hard but there are two ways to go at it. I imagine I went the wrong way.

FA is Steve Edwards & ?. Same for the 12d to the far left of the crag. May 5, 2014