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Routes in Insect Wall (including Block Party)

Backslider S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Block Party S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crack Attack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deflower Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragonfly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamkeeper S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ill Ninja Skills S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Malaria S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mantis S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Patience Grasshopper S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scorpion Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ship of Fools S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Singularity S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Wild Spider S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Scott Hudson
Page Views: 269 total · 9/month
Shared By: jjjjjjjjjj on Jan 20, 2016
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description [Suggest Change]

A unique route that utilized a large downward-then-rightward-facing flake (sorry, it's not really a crack).

Start on decent holds and up to a hueco, then begins your adventure up into the flake (crack), in which squirrels may or may not live. Go right and up the flake to a jug, then a series of wonderful crimps and ledges and pockets to the anchors. Similar to most Reimers routes, the top section gets real blank, except for the few holds that lead to the top.

This route does not see much traffic, perhaps due to it starting up on a ledge with bad fall potential: a stick clip would help.

Location [Suggest Change]

The first route you'll encounter on Insect Wall, left of Deflower Power by 20-30 feet. There is a tall (10 foot) detached boulder in between the trail and the wall that you can scramble up to get to the belay station, which is kinda of sketchy.

Protection [Suggest Change]

4 bolts + chain anchors

Photos

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FA Scott Hudson Jan 26, 2018
FA Scott Hudson Jan 26, 2018

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