Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Rupesh Chhagan, James Harrison
Page Views: 106 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jesse Bruni on Feb 20, 2018
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

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Start left of Scorpion child on an obvious left hand sidepull and make a big move to a glue-reinforced crimp. Move slightly left and up through the roof going either left to natural edges and sidepulls or right through a drilled double-mono sprag.

From here grab the only hold on the headwall and figure out how to navigate the complete lack of holds between this and the next feature 5 feet above you. If you manage to stand on the headwall try to relax and recover to tackle the remaining 5.11 to the chains.


7 bolts + anchors and quick links.


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Jesse Bruni
Jesse Bruni   Austin
Many holds have broken on this route and it likely hasn't seen an ascent since Nick Duttle in late 2012. The crux crimp broke in 2015 and any speculation about it being harder than 13b has officially been put to rest. I've managed to do every move on the route in it's current state and link through the sequences using two different beta's/sets of holds. 13c is probably still a sandbag and it could very well end up at 13d when all is said and done. Feb 20, 2018
Jesse Bruni
Jesse Bruni   Austin
Crux Beta from the send burn: instagram.com/p/BhSdPW8DKbg… Apr 8, 2018