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Routes in Insect Wall (including Block Party)

Backslider S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Block Party S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crack Attack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deflower Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragonfly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamkeeper S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ill Ninja Skills S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Malaria S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mantis S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Patience Grasshopper S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scorpion Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ship of Fools S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Singularity S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Wild Spider S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Rupesh Chhagan, James Harrison
Page Views: 68 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jesse Bruni on Feb 20, 2018
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Start left of Scorpion child on an obvious left hand sidepull and make a big move to a glue-reinforced crimp. Move slightly left and up through the roof going either left to natural edges and sidepulls or right through a drilled double-mono sprag.

From here grab the only hold on the headwall and figure out how to navigate the complete lack of holds between this and the next feature 5 feet above you. If you manage to stand on the headwall try to relax and recover to tackle the remaining 5.11 to the chains.

Protection

7 bolts + anchors and quick links.

Photos

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Jesse Bruni
Austin
  5.13c
Jesse Bruni   Austin
  5.13c
Many holds have broken on this route and it likely hasn't seen an ascent since Nick Duttle in late 2012. The crux crimp broke in 2015 and any speculation about it being harder than 13b has officially been put to rest. I've managed to do every move on the route in it's current state and link through the sequences using two different beta's/sets of holds. 13c is probably still a sandbag and it could very well end up at 13d when all is said and done. Feb 20, 2018
Jesse Bruni
Austin
  5.13c
Jesse Bruni   Austin
  5.13c
Crux Beta from the send burn: instagram.com/p/BhSdPW8DKbg… Apr 8, 2018

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