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Routes in 2. Baldy

Ballroom T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chute TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Elbow TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsight TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Nowhere TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Rustler TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitterbug TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mambo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 106 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Up the gully (or alongside it) to the left-hand crack, then up the crack to the top.
Variation: About half-way up the lower gully, move left onto the arete and up that to a puzzling move (5.6), then finish on the left-hand crack.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Bottom of the gully which is below the left-hand one of the twin cracks on the left (west) edge of the main Baldy face.
Can be reached on Top-Rope by lowering down the obvious gully -- either after climbing up the Ballroom route, or quicker by scrambling from the main Baldy base area left (west) up and across the two sculpted shield flakes.
Or could be reached from below at Sunny Picnics area by way by the Tour des Picnics route.
Or by traversing right before the top of the Access Scramble route.

Protection

Top-Rope: Tree for top anchor with static line, can be reached by hiking and scrambling NorthEast from top of Tower Wall.

Leading: standard Trad rock, with emphasis on wide cams (#3 Camalot could be useful) and larger stoppers.

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