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Routes in 2. Baldy

Ballroom T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chute TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Elbow TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsight TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Nowhere TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Rustler TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitterbug TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mambo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 47 total, 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

A real arete, with a vertical crack in much of it (but not all).

Up the right side of the arete to the three-foot-wide block perched at its top.
. (Easier to start higher, on the slope along the left side of the arete).

warning: The perched block at the top might be loose, so check it carefully before climbing below it or on it.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Below the main mid-platform. The arete at the Left (west) edge of the lower south face of the Baldy sector. The south face is aimed the same way as the upper face of the Baldy sector - aimed toward the recreation center and New Jersey.

The arete reaches the main mid-platform at a three-foot wide block perched on the edge.

For Top-Roping can lower climber down the obvious arete below the main base platform of the Baldy sector.

Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the left (southwest) side of main mid-platform ... up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.

Protection

Top-Rope: Top anchor can be set using tree(s) above the top of the main cliff for Baldy sector. Likely needs directional placement near or just below the main base platform for Baldy sector.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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