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Routes in 2. Baldy

Ballroom T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chute TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Elbow TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsight TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Nowhere TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Rustler TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitterbug TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mambo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 115 total, 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 31, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Up the face, then right-ward to its right edge, and up that to top out on the main mid-platform.

. (could then continue upward on the Chute route).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


Below the main mid-platform, about five feet left in from right edge of the lower south face of the Baldy sector. The south face is aimed the same way as the upper face of the Baldy sector - aimed toward the recreation center and New Jersey.

For Top-Roping can lower climber down the obvious arete below the main base platform of the Baldy sector.

Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the left (southwest) side of main mid-platform ... up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.


Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Baldy area.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.