All Locations > New York > Powerlinez > n. Perched Ramp… > 2. Baldy

Devil's Elbow

Name: Devil's Elbow
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in 2. Baldy

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ballroom T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Chute TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Devil's Elbow TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gunsight TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	High Nowhere TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	High Rustler TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Jitterbug TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mambo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	TR, 25 ft (8 m)
GPS:	41.14522, -74.16491
FA:	TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views:	959 total · 7/month
Shared By:	kenr on Dec 31, 2015
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, SMarsh Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

Up the face, then right-ward to its right edge, and up that to top out on the main mid-platform.

. (could then continue upward on the Chute route).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Below the main mid-platform, about five feet left in from right edge of the lower south face of the Baldy sector. The south face is aimed the same way as the upper face of the Baldy sector - aimed toward the recreation center and New Jersey.

For Top-Roping can lower climber down the obvious arete below the main base platform of the Baldy sector.

Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the left (southwest) side of main mid-platform ... up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.