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Routes in 2. Baldy
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Ballroom T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Chute TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Devil's Elbow TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gunsight TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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High Nowhere TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High Rustler TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jitterbug TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mambo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Type: | TR, 20 ft (6 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14522, -74.16491 |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts 2015 |
| Page Views: | 739 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jan 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Moves on interesting holds. If only this were longer.
From the main Baldy base platform, reach the start by climbing through the Ballroom and Mambo routes.
. (On top-rope, could first do one of those routes as a warmup, then lower halfway down the Mambo lower gully, then climb up the mini-arete on its left side to the plaform below vertical face).
Up the face, finish to right of naked tree trunk.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Start on main mid-platform at base of vertical face, about 8-10 feet left of the left-hand of the twin cracks on the left edge of the main Baldy face. Above the mini-arete on the left side of the lower gully of the Mambo route. A bit right of a standing naked dead tree at the top of the cliff.
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