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Routes in 2. Baldy

Ballroom T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chute TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Elbow TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsight TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Nowhere TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Rustler TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitterbug TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mambo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 86 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Thoughtful interesting fun moves. If only it were longer.

Up the two shield flakes to the right-hand crack, then up that to the top.

Cha Cha variation: Start up the face and crack just right of the shield flakes. Technical thoughtful (5.7)

Strictly Ballroom (Top-Rope): Lower in to start below the obvious roof/overhang. Up to the roof and exit around its right side (5.8)

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Two sculpted shield flakes, with a crack along their right side, at the left (west) side of the main face of Baldy - with twin cracks above.

Protection

Top-Rope: Tree for top anchor with static line, can be reached by hiking and scrambling NorthEast from top of Tower Wall.

Leading: Standard Trad rack, emphasis on medium cams (no large pieces needed)

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