Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 3. Albion

Big Dipper TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cecret Saddle TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Extrovert TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extrovert Upper TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Glory Gulch TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Dipper TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Pillar East TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillar Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
So Long TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 86 total, 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 31, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Variety of moves and rock situations.

Start up the center of the gully. About two-thirds of the way up, find a big foothold on right side of center-line, just at the bottom of where the gully get choked with grass + dirt. Step across left, then up the Left wall of gully to the right (east) edge of the main mid-platform of the Baldy sector.
. Variation: Perhaps easier to stay more in the center of the gully - (less interesting).

Next step right across the top the gully to the left (southwest) edge of the base platform of the Albion upper slab. Mount a big flake (joining the Extrovert Upper route), then up the arete to the top.
. Variation: (instead of stepping across the gully) From the right end of Baldy mid-platform go up slab directly to the arete - (more aesthetic line, but less fun climbing).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Below the main Albion base platform, the gully to the left of the East wall of the pillar, below the exposed gap between the main mid-platform for the Baldy sector and the main platform for the Albion slab.

For Top-Roping can lower in from the usual top anchor for Albion which is about 30 feet above the main platform at the base of the upper slab.

Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the Albion base platform left (west) across the Baldy sector main mid-platform, then up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.

Or shorter but more slippery and less fun, could try scrambling difficulty 4th class) down northeast - east - southeast down from the Albion base platform, down around the east side of the pillar to reach its bottom.

Protection

Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Albion area.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

0 Comments