Albion Rock Climbing
|GPS:||41.145, -74.165 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||4,643 total · 71/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Dec 27, 2015|
East-facing slab on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall, with striking pillar below. Just right (east) of the Baldy sector and just left (southwest) of the Shadow Castle sector.
The main base mid-platform is flat, but with a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them (tree available).
Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past above Albion slab, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet back East.
... or ...
Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet east.
warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
How to get to Puzzle Palace: See the detailed instructions on the Perched Ramparts area page.
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