Albion Rock Climbing
Routes in 3. Albion
|Big Dipper TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Cecret Saddle TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Extrovert TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Extrovert Upper TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Glory Gulch TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Little Dipper TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Pillar East TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pillar Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pillar Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sidewinder TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|So Long TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|GPS:||41.145, -74.165 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||kenr on Dec 27, 2015|
DescriptionNice spot to do lots of easy interesting 5.2 - 5.7 slab climbing on Top-Rope. Steeper interesting 5.8 below the obvious mid-platform. Two more interesting 5.3-5.4 routes nearby in the Baldy sector.
East-facing slab on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall, with striking pillar below. Just right (east) of the Baldy sector and just left (southwest) of the Shadow Castle sector.
The main base mid-platform is flat, but with a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them (tree available).
Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past above Albion slab, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet back East.
... or ...
Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet east.
warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Getting ThereBecause of difficult vegetation as of 2017, the easiest approach is to first go to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag, then walk about 200 feet left horizontally WSW under steep left-trending gully and Jumble Hotel crag, then under another steep gully and Devonshire slab and Shadow Castle sectors, past the corner to an eight-feed wide flat platform below the upper slab.
How to get to Puzzle Palace: See the detailed instructions on the Perched Ramparts area page.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season