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Routes in 3. Albion

Big Dipper TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cecret Saddle TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Extrovert TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extrovert Upper TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Glory Gulch TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Dipper TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Pillar East TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillar Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
So Long TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts + Matt Murphy 2015
Page Views: 83 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Thoughtful moves up the crack system on the left side of the south face of the pillar, just right of the obvious broken gully (which goes up to the gap between the Baldy sector's main base platform and the Albion base platform). Finish around Left side of top dome, perhaps using a bit of the gully.
. Variation: Finish directly up southwest side of pillar's top dome, with delicate slab moves (5.10b).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Below the main Albion base mid-platform, Left (west) side of the South wall of the pillar - (the wall which is aimed perpendicular to the direction of the main Albion slab above the platform which forms the top of the pillar -- faces toward the Recreation center and New Jersey).
See the routes overview photo for Albion sector.

For Top-Roping can lower in from the usual top anchor for Albion which is about 30 feet above the main base platform (possibly with the belayer standing on the platform instead of at the bottom of the route).

Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the Albion base platform left (west) across the Baldy sector's main base platform, then up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.

Or shorter but more slippery and less fun, could try scrambling difficulty 4th class) down northeast - east - southeast down from the Albion base platform, down around the east side of the pillar to reach its bottom.

Protection

Top-Roping: Can set up with the usual top anchor for routes of the Albion sector -- but need a directional to keep the climber from swinging left on a fall. Could try a #1 Camalot (red) with a normal shoulder-length sling in a horizontal crack by the right (east) side of the face about ten feet below the top.
. (This directional piece could also be used for top-roping the Pillar Right route, clipping in close to the protection piece instead of extending with sling).

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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