BETA PHOTO: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...
South-facing slab in upper cliff a ways east from Tower Wall, just West (left) from Albion
sector, with obvious mid-platform between its lower and upper sections.
The routes are short, so no individual route tends to get many quality stars. But each route has interesting climbing, and with some cleverness in setting top-rope anchors, can efficiently get a lot of good easy/moderate climbing by visiting here (especially when combined with Albion
A bit tricky to reach its base or main mid-platform as of 2015. Perhaps easiest to rappel or lower in from top anchor (perhaps after doing some Top-Rope climbing in the Albion
sector). Or an experienced trad leader could belay the other climbers across from the Albion main base mid-platform.
The obvious main mid-platform slopes toward a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them - (One way to do that would be hang a fixed rope down from an anchor at the top).
As of 2015, a reasonable way to reach it is to have at least one member of the party go to the base of the upper slab of the Albion
sector (see directions below). Also have at least one experienced leader go to the top of Tower Wall, then NorthEast along the top of the cliffs until make visual contact with the other climbers at the base of Albion, then set up top anchor which can be shared with Albion sector and east side of Baldy upper slab for Top-Roping.
... or ...
There is an exposed 4th class move between the base of the Albion
upper slab and the base of the Baldy upper slab. An experienced leader good at rigging trad protection could belay the other climbers across that.
Because of difficult vegetation as of 2015, the easiest approach to the main base platform of the Albion
upper slab is to first go to the base of the Puzzle Palace
crag, then walk about 200 feet left horizontally WSW under steep left-trending gully and Jumble Hotel crag, then under another steep gully and Devonshire slab and Shadow Castle sectors, past the corner to an eight-feed wide flat platform below the upper slab.
How to get to Puzzle Palace: See detailed instructions
in the first Comment
on the Puzzle Palace area page
Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace
crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace
, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past
above Albion slab, scrambling down below the top about twenty feet SouthEast.
... or ...
Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then scrambling down below the top about twenty feet SouthEast.
... or ...
Make a Trad lead of the Ballroom route.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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A real arete, with a vertical crack in much of it (but not all).Up the right side of the arete to the three-foot-wide block perched at its top.. (Easier to start higher, on the slope along the left side of the arete).Warning: The perched block at the top might be loose, so check it carefully before climbing below it or on it....[more] Browse More Classics in NY