Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS: 39.76833, -105.21673
FA: Dan Hare, Tom Kohlmann?
Page Views: 1,312 total · 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 4, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is an obvious line to the right of Mind Mantel Arete that draws the eye of those who seek routes to keep one climbing newer terrain. Interestingly, someone, perhaps Dan or Tom, got to it first and added an anchor for your convenience. Good crack technique makes this easier than 5.9.

The start involves a few moves with trickier gear placement as one spot is too tight for a #2 Camalot and the next tends to umbrella out a #0.75 Camalot. A key footjam or two can make the next section more secure. Some may complain that the #2 Camalot spot squeezes out a handjam, but you can do both. At the mini-roof, you have choices. Going left gets you a big ledge, but pro gets scarce for a bit. Face climbing more directly over the mini-roof appears less probable but is no harder. Forcing oneself right may be more awkward. Gain the next ledge. An okay #1 Camalot can be placed below the fractured plate. A yellow Alien helps protect the final bit to the two bolt anchor with links.

Location Suggest change

This is to the right of Mind Mantel Arete and left of High Plains Whimper going up a right-leaning crack.

Protection Suggest change

A rack that worked: #0.75, #3.5 (old size), #3, #2, tiny cam?, #1, yellow Alien, and a two bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Bee Alert Suggest change

Per Chris Johnson: there is a bee hive just to the right of the route halfway up.

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