Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 900 total · 5/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Jul 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Where is it? This climb is right of "Lying on the Ground". Follow a shallow grove on the left side of the "Pigeon Pile Pinnacle" that is about four feet wide and has two cracks (one on the right and one on the left side of the grove). The groove goes straight up for about 40 feet, then angles right.

The hardest part to this climb is figuring out the pro right off the deck. You have a flaring crack on your left that bottoms out, and a spooky flake up high on your right with a thin crack. I did find a good nut placement at about the 10' mark on the right, and ultimately placed a TCU in the spooky flake crack. The crux is moving past the flake. Continue up the grove angling right until you get near the top of the pinnacle. Near the top there is another large block on the left side of the crack that is dubiously attached to the wall. It is probably best not to mess with it.

The belay bolts for Pigeon Pile Pinnacle can be used for the belay anchor (on the right of this exposed perch). The pinnacle itself is a Leaning Tower of Pisa in its own right (leaning out and away from the main cliff that is). I belayed my partner from the top, and then we rapped down.

I'm giving this climb one star for the spook factor. Be careful.

Protection

Medium nuts, small cams (I never used anything bigger than 1", but it looks like you could use a #3 Camalot high on the route), and four slings.

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