Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 917 total · 9/month
Shared By: pat thompson on Dec 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Start in the obvious, nappy chimney to the obvious ledge. Climb left of ledge past a couple of good gear placements. Clip bolt on left-facing corner and climb just right of previous route to a small ledge and a small crack. Place good gear in crack and step right on to a down-sloping ledge. From this point you have several options. I thought the most fun option was stepping right into the chimney and stemming across the chimney using the obvious mondo (right) and crimper (left) holds while clipping the 4 closely placed bolts on the face right of the chimney 5.8 and moving right to the anchor. One can also climb the arete proper from the down sloping ledge via pretty cool moves at 5.9. One can also climb a still dirty corner from the down sloping ledge at about 5.5. These variations all end at the chain anchor.

Location

Start 10 feet right of previous route. Same start as Redrum [#186] in the Haas and Schneider guide.

Protection

5 bolts and gear to a # 1 Camalot.

Photos

pat thompson
superior
5.8
pat thompson   superior
5.8
Sorry, kind of mixed up. The bolts off the down-sloping ledge are to the left of the arete/chimney and you move left to the chain anchor. Dec 24, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
This is somewhat of a squeeze job in that it changes the character of Redrum to the right. The moves on the arete are fun though and climbing the arete direct felt no harder than 5.8. A 0.4 and 0.3 C4 seem adequate to protect the moves that are not bolted. This is a minor point, but it would have been nice if the anchor chains were painted to match the rock. Even at a place that is grid bolted like Table, these anchors stick out like a sore thumb. Jan 16, 2011