Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,754 total · 11/month
Shared By: pat thompson on Dec 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

21 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Start in the obvious, nappy chimney to the obvious ledge. Climb left of ledge past a couple of good gear placements. Clip bolt on left-facing corner and climb just right of previous route to a small ledge and a small crack. Place good gear in crack and step right on to a down-sloping ledge. From this point you have several options. I thought the most fun option was stepping right into the chimney and stemming across the chimney using the obvious mondo (right) and crimper (left) holds while clipping the 4 closely placed bolts on the face right of the chimney 5.8 and moving right to the anchor. One can also climb the arete proper from the down sloping ledge via pretty cool moves at 5.9. One can also climb a still dirty corner from the down sloping ledge at about 5.5. These variations all end at the chain anchor.

Location Suggest change

Start 10 feet right of previous route. Same start as Redrum [#186] in the Haas and Schneider guide.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts and gear to a # 1 Camalot.