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Routes in Second Grotto Wall

Back Scratcher Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Lower Plaque Nose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Might as Well Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Necronomicom Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plaque Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zebra, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
on ramp, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Hermann Gollner, 1989
Page Views: 478 total · 14/month
Shared By: Gneiss Yeti on Aug 26, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

150 feet of glory, The Zebra follows a prominent line up the center of the second Grotto over angular holds at first, followed by a beautiful headwall up high.

Begin on a slab with twin cracks to a high first bolt about 25 feet up. This section can be protected with a few cams if you feel inclined. After the first bolt, make a funky mantle, trending right to gain the base of the first headwall and the beginning of the route. Clip the second bolt from a good sidepull, then follow a line of perma-draws through angular jugs and fun body positions. At around 100 feet, the line of nicely spaced perma-draws make an abrupt stop where you encounter a spooky, runout traverse leading to the second headwall out right. Clip two more fixed draws at the base of the second headwall, then continue up using your own draws to the anchors. For full value, you can top out and make your best effort to look like rocky after climbing the Rocky Steps at the Philly Art museum.

Location

This can be recognized by the line of chain fixed draws.

Protection

10 or so draws, two for the start and rest for the upper headwall. Use a long runner on the bolt next to the large, triangular jug to prevent your rope getting caught. A 80 meter rope is required for lowering in one go. Otherwise, there are some mid-anchors out left about 60 feet down that you can rappel from (I have not done this).

Photos

Amanda Ramsay
Basalt, CO
 
Amanda Ramsay   Basalt, CO
 
This is one of the best routes of the grade in our area. Amazing. Also, directions say you need an 80 meter rope, but I made it down just fine with a 70. Jul 7, 2016
Steve Smith
Durango
Steve Smith   Durango
Only 6 draws are needed, 2 down low which are nice to be long and 4 for the upper headwall. Also made it down with a 70m. Jul 3, 2017

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