Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: J. Auld, H. Carter, R. Gardner, J. Jacobson
Page Views: 1,753 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Persevere past the intimidating start to easier very fun and exposed climbing to the top. This route climbs the right edge of the Plaque at the right side of Second Grotto Wall. The crux start through the A-shaped overhang is protected by 2 pins well backed up with cams. Strenuous move on hand jams and big holds swing you out left onto the face. Follow the arête, sometimes right on the arête and sometimes just left, to the top past 3 more pins. There are a couple of mildly runout sections, but the climbing there is relatively easy and secure.

Location

Somehow get to the ledge at the base of the Plaque. The obvious approach is Lower Plaque Nose, but there are other approach routes to the right. Scramble up and right on the ledge to just left of an A-shaped overhang and set up a trad belay.

Protection

5 old pins. Single set of nuts, and cams from micro to gold/#2 Camalot. There are two bolts at the top to belay from. Move climbers left to bolts and chains that get you down in 2 one-rope raps.

Photos