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Routes in Second Grotto Wall

Back Scratcher Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Lower Plaque Nose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Might as Well Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Necronomicom Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plaque Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zebra, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
on ramp, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 113 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the most obvious approach to the Plaque face. Start at the base of the nose, then step right and immediately confront the crux--several difficult and treacherous moves on slopers and rounded grooves. Definitely back up the pin with a small cam in the vertical just to the right. You can also get gear in the horizontal below. A few moves higher move right to the gully, then back left to an overhang on the left side of the nose. A bolt and small cam protects the layback moves over the hang. Easier climbing leads to a large tree. Belay at the tree, or continue up and right to the ledge at the base of the Plaque. There are bolts and rings at the center of the Plaque to rap or, highly recommended, continue up and right and set a trad belay to continue on Plaque Right.

Location

This is the nose of the buttress below the Plaque face of Second Grotto Wall. It's the lowest point of Second Grotto Wall. Hike up left past Lower Grotto Wall and diagonal across the talus following occasional cairns.

Protection

One dubious pin at the crux, small to hand-sized cams.

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