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Routes in Second Grotto Wall

Back Scratcher Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Lower Plaque Nose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Might as Well Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Necronomicom Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plaque Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zebra, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
on ramp, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 35 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Davis, Steve Shea, 1977
Page Views: 751 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the pumpy, overhanging, hand crack after the 1st pitch of "Necronomicom". It has good jams and exposure!

Location [Suggest Change]

Climb first pitch of Necro, then out of the ledge belay climb up 10' and head out right up the overhanging, hand crack, secret agent holds are also inside the crack. It will clean up better with travel. Rap other routes or walk down right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Double set of cams #0.5-#3, TCUs, natural tree belay on top slab.

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This pitch was first climbed by me and Greg Davis in 1977. We called it Necronomicon Direct. As described, it goes up an overhanging hand crack. We rated it 5.10d or 5.11. All good pro nothing fixed. It is not 666 Variation, sorry. I was also on the FA of the first pitch with Lou Dawson. Steve Shea. Jun 17, 2011
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
Sure didn't know. Harder exit for sure. Looks like a mission to correct a lot of Pass routes in this database fo' sho'. Jun 23, 2011
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
It'll be in the new book! Apr 6, 2017

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