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Routes in Second Grotto Wall

Back Scratcher Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Lower Plaque Nose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Might as Well Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Necronomicom Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plaque Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zebra, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
on ramp, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

The Second Grotto Wall is the obvious bulk just uphill from Lower Grotto Wall and is characterized by a huge plaque on the upper left side of the crag. Take the faint trail and bushwhack to LGW. Then hump left around and up to SGW. The right side of the crag holds half a dozen long, high quality sport routes. Most take double ropes to rap to the ground as they are 140 to 150 ft long. Major attraction on the right ascend the blackish rock and include the classics The Zebra and Might as Well Jump. There is not a lot of warm-up sport-wise, but some moderate trad exists on the left side of the crag. Overall, this is a terrific crag with good sun, a nice setting, and enough hump (20 minutes) to keep the crowds down.

Getting There

Use Matt's directions for the Lower Grotto Wall if you are coming from Aspen. If you are coming in from Denver/Boulder, it is probably much more direct to take US 285 to Johnson's Corner and then take Colo 24 North to Twin Lakes and the fork on to Colo 82. Travel West on CO 82 to the top of the pass, and set the odometer to zero from the West end of the tourist parking lot. This is also the parking for the Instant Karma cliff. Exactly 9.6 miles West of the Independence Pass parking, and on the left side of the road, is the parking for Grotto walls and adjacent cliffs. The cliff are largely on the North side of the road and just a heart-beat outside of the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness - with all of its restrictions.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Second Grotto Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Josh Janes    
Thinking I was getting on Alison in Bucketland, I got on some route near the right end of this cliff that might not be in the IP2 book... It begins just left of the little cave, takes a very steep line up a dihedral, and is protected by older ring bolts, a few modern bolts, and a few pins. The upper half has chain draws and one of the lower bolts, near the crux, has a long piece of ancient tat to facilitate clipping....

Anyone know what this route is? Quite chossy. Jul 14, 2010

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