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Routes in Penny Royal Arches

Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
White Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Higgins and Tom Gerughty 8/70
Page Views: 722 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A Classic Higgins route up a gold colored wall!

Pitch 1 - climb up a small right facing dihedral and a short 5.8 face to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - climb up right then left then back up right past three bolts heading for the left edge of a nice belay ledge. Gear belay.

Pitch 3 - Gold. The money pitch. Head up and left past a bolt to a second bolt. Go straight up to a third bolt. From here traverse right(crux) to a prominent crack. Go up the crack a short ways and belay.

Pitch 4 - climb the crack(fingers and hands - 5.8) to a ledge and belay.

Pitch 5 - a short, easy pitch to low angle slabs and trees ends the climb.

Location

This route starts just right of the bottom of the right edge of the huge dihedral which splits Pennyroyal Arches. BITD, this was the only route on the face. Now, there are many more. Be careful not to stray onto another route.

The descent is rather cumbersome. From the top of the climb head right on low angled slabs(a rope might come in handy in one spot) to the extreme right edge of the formation and make a tedious 4th class/low 5th class descent.

People have tried to rappel from the trees at the top of the climb and utilize the anchors on some of the climbs below, but there is no established route.

Protection

Take a full rack of stoppers and cams up to a #3 Camalot.

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a PG13
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a PG13
a few years ago i rebolted 'piece de resistance' - a wonderful line, but well beyond my abilities. in the process of the rebolting project i emailed back and forth with tom a few times and finally asked him if he knew of a similar line that was a bit easier. his suggestion was 'the vision.' i finally got to climb 'the vision' today and must concur that it is pretty stellar. based on that experience i'd like to add a few things to bruce's description:
- pro: we brought doubles to camalot #2 and a single #3. did not place the #3 and could have easily gone with one #1 and #2. the climb favors 3/8-3/4" cams (offsets useful). medium nuts useful on P4. we also climbed on a twin/double rope system, which was quite nice on some of the wandering portions of P2 and P3 (and the rappel).
- imho this route qualifies for a pg-13 and if it was a R rating (reid/falkenstein 2006) i would not disagree. yes, there aren't the 50'+ runouts that are so prevalent on other tuolumne climbs, but if you fall in the wrong spot you're still going for a 30'+ ride.
- P3 (crux): i thought getting from the 2nd to the 3rd bolt was just as hard as traversing from the 3rd bolt to the crack and more sustained/less secure.
- P4 looks vegetated and grungy, but it is stellar. somewhat similar to P3 on 'west crack,' but a bit easier (5.7 on a bad day).
- P5/rap route: i went up and left in the shallow corner to its end, then went straight right across low angle slab to the stand of trees just west of 'euphoria.' there is a rap route that starts from there. this was on twin 60s (barely reached) with no pro in the shallow corner. a fall would not have been good.
- the rap route has 4 rappels, which we did on twin 60s. the last rappel goes over the big arch and is partially free hanging. Jul 17, 2018

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