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Routes in Penny Royal Arches

Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Higgins and Tom Gerughty 8/70
Page Views: 553 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A Classic Higgins route up a gold colored wall!

Pitch 1 - climb up a small right facing dihedral and a short 5.8 face to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - climb up right then left then back up right past three bolts heading for the left edge of a nice belay ledge. Gear belay.

Pitch 3 - Gold. The money pitch. Head up and left past a bolt to a second bolt. Go straight up to a third bolt. From here traverse right(crux) to a prominent crack. Go up the crack a short ways and belay.

Pitch 4 - climb the crack(fingers and hands - 5.8) to a ledge and belay.

Pitch 5 - a short, easy pitch to low angle slabs and trees ends the climb.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route starts just right of the bottom of the right edge of the huge dihedral which splits Pennyroyal Arches. BITD, this was the only route on the face. Now, there are many more. Be careful not to stray onto another route.

The descent is rather cumbersome. From the top of the climb head right on low angled slabs(a rope might come in handy in one spot) to the extreme right edge of the formation and make a tedious 4th class/low 5th class descent.

People have tried to rappel from the trees at the top of the climb and utilize the anchors on some of the climbs below, but there is no established route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Take a full rack of stoppers and cams up to a #3 Camalot.



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