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Routes in Pennyroyal Arches
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Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Multiplication T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Resisting Arrest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Whippersnapper T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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White Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 37.8409, -119.43996 |
| FA: | Tom Higgins and Tom Gerughty 8/70 |
| Page Views: | 2,390 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A classic Higgins route up a gold colored wall!
Pitch 1 - climb up a small left facing dihedral and a short 5.8 face to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 - climb up right then left then back up right past three bolts heading for the left edge of a nice belay ledge. Gear belay.
Pitch 3 - Gold. The money pitch. Head up and left past a bolt to a second bolt. Go straight up to a third bolt. From here traverse right(crux) to a prominent crack. Go up the crack a short ways and belay.
Pitch 4 - climb the crack(fingers and hands - 5.8) to a ledge and belay.
Pitch 5 - a short, easy pitch to low angle slabs and trees ends the climb.
Location
This route starts just right of the bottom of the right edge of the huge dihedral which splits Pennyroyal Arches. BITD, this was the only route on the face. Now, there are many more. Be careful not to stray onto another route.
The descent is rather cumbersome. From the top of the climb head right on low angled slabs(a rope might come in handy in one spot) to the extreme right edge of the formation and make a tedious 4th class/low 5th class descent.
People have tried to rappel from the trees at the top of the climb and utilize the anchors on some of the climbs below, but there is no established route. There is an established rappel route which starts near the top of the route Euphoria. It's four double 60m rope raps from bolts to the ground.
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