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Routes in Penny Royal Arches

Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Clint Cummins 9/2009
Page Views: 519 total, 19/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route includes gear-protected crack climbing, bolt protected face climbing and a fun roof.

Pitch 1 - head up and slightly left on a short headwall and gain a crack which runs up the face. Climb this crack for a short bit then traverse right into another crack which runs longer up the face. Follow this crack for about 100' to the belay which takes a #2 and #3 Camalot. This pitch is about 215' so if you have a 60m rope you will need to simulclimb with the follower on easy terrain. 5.6.

Pitch 2 - work up and left into the left facing dihedral which turns into a roof. Surmount the roof on nice holds and proceed left to a ledge and belay(#1 Camalot and other gear). 5.5.

Pitch 3 - climb up and left following a small crack for 20 feet to the base of a dark water streak. Climb the water streak past seven bolts with the crux coming at the top to a two bolt anchor. 5.7.

Location

This route begins at the low point of the rock buttress about 200' left of the huge dihedral which splits the Pennyroyal Arches formation.

To descend either traverse straight right about 100' to the tree atop the third pitch of Penny Dreadful(stay roped together; there is a 5th class move halfway) and do two double rope rappels(two 60m ropes mandatory). Alternately, head straight left on ledges to the left end of the formation and hike back to the start.

Protection

Full rack of trad gear up to a #3 Camalot.
Ben Townsend  
 
Fun climb. On the second pitch, I inadvertently went up around the roof on the right, then did an unprotected face traverse to the belay -- not recommended. Go left under the roof until the crack appears. The third pitch will keep your full attention -- it's possible to get some small to medium cams in horizontals between the bolts. Jul 28, 2016