Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Clint Cummins 9/2009
Page Views: 1,106 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

This route includes gear-protected crack climbing, bolt protected face climbing and a fun roof.  The first two pitches are a great place for leaders getting into trad climbing to practice placing gear.

Pitch 1 - head up and slightly left on a short headwall and gain a crack which runs up the face. Climb this crack for about 30 feet then traverse right into another crack which runs longer up the face. Follow this crack for about 100' to the belay which takes a #2 and #3 Camalot. This pitch is about 215' so if you have a 60m rope you will need to simulclimb with the follower on easy terrain. 5.6.

Pitch 2 - work up and left into a left facing dihedral which turns into a roof. Surmount the roof on nice holds and proceed left to a ledge and belay(#1 Camalot and other gear). 5.5.

Pitch 3 - climb up and left following a small crack for 20 feet to the base of a dark water streak. Climb the water streak past seven bolts with the crux coming at the top. Two bolt anchor. Some gear placements can be found to supplement the bolts, if desired. 5.7.

Location

This route begins at the low point of the rock buttress about 200' left of the huge dihedral which splits the Pennyroyal Arches formation.

To descend either traverse straight right about 100' to the tree atop the third pitch of Penny Dreadful(stay roped together; there is a 5th class move halfway) and do two double rope rappels(two 60m ropes mandatory). Alternately, head straight left on exposed ledges(be careful here) to the left end of the formation and around back to the start.

Protection

Full rack of trad gear up to a #3 Camalot.

Photos