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Routes in Penny Royal Arches

Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Gerughty and Dave Calfee
Page Views: 1,277 total, 10/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Aug 23, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

All pitches 5.4. Start out in the prominent left facing corner. Follow the corner for 2 pitches. Face climb up to lower angle terrain and the rappel anchor.

Location

3 pitch route on the right side of Pennyroyal Arches. Obvious low angle left facing corner crack. Rappel Diaphoretic Spasms (first rappel is half rope, then two double rope rappels to the base of the route).

Protection

Standard Rack. Only fixed anchor is at the end of the third pitch, which, is the rappel anchor also.

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.6
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.6
i'd put the grade at 5.6, but it's definitely not R. the dihedral takes gear pretty much anywhere and the 3rd pitch has gear on easy ground. overall a fun route with no crowds. Jul 1, 2016
Peter Monks
  5.7+
Peter Monks  
  5.7+
Agree with Karl K - the upper dihedral (original 2nd pitch) is significantly harder than 5.4 - I thought more like 5.8, although some of that extra difficulty was probably due to the route being pretty dirty and a tad damp in spots when I did it. I suspect we were the first party on the route for the 2011 season, given the amount of detritus on the first two pitches, and the large snow bank at the base (we ended up traversing in from the right to start, brushing sand, gravel, rocks and pine needles off the holds as we went).

The 3rd pitch is super easy - 5.2 for 20' then 4th class. Make sure you take double ropes for the rappel, and don't try to skip the first rappel station (which is only about 60' down the slab from the top) - we had double 60m ropes and were about 30' shy of the bottom rappel anchor (side note: always carry prussiks!).

Also agree with Karl K re pitching - better to lead the dihedral as one mega pitch (take singles of everything up to #4 camalot size including small gear, and doubles of #1, #2, #3). This should be possible even with a 50m rope by doing a short first pitch to the small ledge at the base of the dihedral proper - this is a vastly better stance than a semi-hanging belay anywhere in the dihedral (despite appearances, there are no ledges or even decent stances anywhere in the dihedral).

The belay just above the dihedral has a good #3 camalot at foot level - I'm fairly certain that block isn't loose. That said, a second bolt would take any guesswork out of it - consider this a second vote for adding a bolt to this belay. FWIW this anchor is shown as having 2 bolts in the Falkenstein guide, though I didn't see any evidence of a second bolt having ever existed. Jul 18, 2011
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
  5.6 R
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
  5.6 R
Easily done in 2 pitches with 60m rope. I thought the footholds/friction in the corner were too slick/water-polished to be 5.4. Felt more like 5.6.
Lead whole dihedral in one long pitch - 197' to poor anchor with a good bolt. Belay is just above a little roof about 10' left of corner system; it features cracks that looked solid, but most of the blocks were loose. A second bolt here would make me feel better.
Second pitch is runout, but on mostly large knobs. 5.4
Easy rappel starts 20' left of the end of last pitch at left end of ledge. Aug 7, 2009