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Routes in Penny Royal Arches

Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
White Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand 9/2008
Page Views: 372 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The fourth pitch is full-value Meadows face climbing.

Pitch 1 - climb up easy slab for about 75-80' heading for an obvious right facing dihedral. Once you reach the dihedral you can get pro. Belay about halfway up the dihedral on a small stance. 5.6-57.

Pitch 2 - continue up the dihedral and then up and right as it curves. At it's end climb up into a small left facing dihedral. Belay about 20 feet below the large ledge system which splits the face. 5.7

Pitch 3 - climb up 25' to the large ledge and belay at a large tree.

Pitch 4 - the crux. Climb up and right past two bolts to a small ledge. Place a small stopper and step up to clip the third bolt. Traverse left and then up to a fourth bolt. Head up and right to a small crack system to the fifth bolt. Proceed up the crack (#2 Camalot) to a headwall and the sixth and seventh bolts. Surmount the headwall(crux) to a ledge with a bolt. Up a crack/seam(doesn't take pro, but not difficult) for 20' to a two bolt belay.

Location

This route starts about 100' left of the huge dihedral which splits Pennyroyal Arches. You are heading for the obvious right facing dihedral. Climb up easy slabs to reach it.

To descend rap from the top of the fourth pitch with two 60m ropes. From the large ledge rap from the tree for 60m to a double bolt anchor. Rap 60m to the ground from there.

Protection

Take a full range of stoppers and cams up to a #3 Camalot. The fourth pitch takes several small stoppers and a #1 and #2 Camalot.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
The rappels below the tree are both 60m rope-stretchers. Jul 28, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
wondering why this climb does not get a R rating?

overall pretty fun climbing, although P3 is choss. glad to have a jiggle-o for some judicious anchor gardening.

it's easy climbing, but don't fall on P1 before getting in some pro - it's a long way down...

P4 has 8 bolts and a really tightly bolted crux, the rest is a bit runout. only pro was a #1 camalot. long pitch, pretty close to 60m w. some wandering.

there is no 20' crack at the top of the climb, it's a shallow groove that has a seam (no pro). 2x60m ropes worked just fine on the rappels, knot your ends. Jul 24, 2018
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Pretty good route up corners and cracks. Fairly runout in many places, due to the corner cracks being pinched off or mossed shut. Found the .10a pitch to be full value; felt hard to me for the grade. Yes, in agreement with old5ten, no crack at the end after the last bolt. Just a glued shut seam that takes no gear, is pay-attention climbing, and may be closer to 30 feet before the anchor. Aug 23, 2018
Bruce Hildenbrand  
  5.10a
I updated the route description with the comments about the seam leading to the belay on pitch 4. Thanks! Aug 24, 2018

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