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Routes in Penny Royal Arches

Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Tom Sisson 8/78
Page Views: 121 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 4, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A runout route put up in old-school Tuolumne tradition. What's the opposite of 'vision'?

Pitch 1 - climb the discontinuous finger crack(5.7) to a two bolt anchor with quick links and chain.

Pitch 2 - head slightly right and up past two closely spaced bolts then up and right(5.10a) over a small roof to a third bolt. Climb 20-25 feet to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 - climb up and slightly right past three bolts(5.10a) to the two-bolt anchor which is shared by Diaphoretic Spasms.

Location

This route is located to the left of Diaphoretic Spasms. Locate a discontinuous finger crack which leads to the right edge of a big arch.

To descend, either walk off to the right or rappel Diaphoretic Spasms.

Protection

Stoppers and small stuff up to 1" for the finger crack on pitch 1. Bolts after that.

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