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Routes in Y- 12
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Aftermath S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alternator S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Atomic Bomb (aka Thunderbolt) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Atomic Garden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Barbwire and Lingerie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Born on the 4th of July S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Carnivore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dirty White Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Druelin' Banjos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dyno Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fat Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fruit Boosters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Generator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Glow in the Dark Bambi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Herbivore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hijacked T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Immortal KB, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Journey on the 4th of July S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Journey, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Little Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Odyssey, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Placebo Effect S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Polka Freak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Red Alert S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shazam S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shoot em all S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Six Digits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spider Up My Crack S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Thermal Detonator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Thermal Underwear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Thermal Voyager S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Three Billygoat's Gruff S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three's Company S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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True Grit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vision Lives on, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Welcome to the Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Y- 12 | 5272 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Years in the Making T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 36.09452, -84.71022 |
| FA: | Eric Oglesby |
| Page Views: | 1,109 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Aug 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Access Issue: Update: no access issue since Obed is under National Park Service jurisdiction as a "Wild and Scenic River". nps.gov/obed/index.htm
Details
Description
Touted as a bit dusty in the guidebook. More like completely covered in powder mold from top to bottom with some big, scary, loose flakes just below the roof.
I am no stranger to a little dust, or choss. However, this was the dirtiest pitch I have ever done. Needless to say, I bailed just below the roof and have no plans to try it again.
Anyways, here is what I know of the route.
Pull 5.11- moves through a grungy steep section to a very dirty, mold covered 5.9 slab. If you have allergies or are worried about contracting a respiratory disease, try not to breath as you paw through spore covered edges and side pulls to reach a sandy horizontal with death flakes above.
Although I am not exactly sure what happens above this point, the route steepens and most likely contains the crux. However, the rock didn't seem to be improving.
Worst route I have been on at the Obed. Not recommended.
1 Comment