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Routes in Y- 12

Aftermath S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alternator S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atomic Bomb (aka Thunderbolt) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atomic Garden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Barbwire and Lingerie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born on the 4th of July S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carnivore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty White Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Druelin' Banjos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fruit Boosters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Generator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glow in the Dark Bambi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Helminthic Therapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Herbivore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hijacked T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Immortal KB, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Journey, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Little Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Odyssey, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Placebo Effect S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polka Freak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychowhore S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Alert S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shazam S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shoot em all S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Six Digits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider Up My Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thermal Detonator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thermal Underwear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thermal Voyager S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
True Grit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vision Lives on, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Welcome to the Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jay Arp
Page Views: 241 total · 6/month
Shared By: Austin Eddy on Mar 6, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

The climb starts relatively easy with some somewhat delicate traversing back and forth up the face. Nothing spectacular, but still pretty fun. Right when the climb gets a little steeper, the first crux comes with a big throw between two good holds. It isn't too bad if you remember to try hard. From there, work your way up a bit further to the last bolt. Here is where the real fun starts. Hopefully you aren't too pumped. Power through the awesome V5ish boulder problem with a side pull, some nice crimps, a gaston, and a sloper to a pretty exciting finish. Once you stick the jug after the sloper, you've made it!

Location

Two routes to the right of the Odyssey. There is a sort of cool looking rock formed chair at the base.

Protection

Some draws. I think around 10. You don't really need to stick clip it unless you really want to.

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Kyle Townsend 1
San Francisco, California
 
Kyle Townsend 1   San Francisco, California
 
BETA ALERT! DON'T BLOW YOUR ONSIGHT!!!

This is a good route with decent rock quality and fun movement. If you are a grade chaser, this is one of the softer 12c's in the Obed. There is a dynamic move in the steeper mid-section, and a very brief boulder problem guarding the chains. You get a bit of a rest before the boulder, which makes it all about getting the sequence right, as pump isn't a huge issue. Enjoy! Sep 11, 2018

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