Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: FA Rob Robinson FFA Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 4,985 total · 36/month
Shared By: chummer on Feb 3, 2008 with improvements by James Horstman
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the most amazing pitches at the Obed. Steep fun laybacking takes you up to and out a roof to an overhanging prow. Crafty body position gains you a no hands rest after the roof.

Prepare to bear down for a 5 or 6 move boulder problem on some of the tweakiest tweaks at Obed. This V5 (or so) sequence blocks entrance to some of the biggest jugs on the super steep and way exposed prow. I recommend mantling up over the anchors for a sit. It was onsighted by Katie Brown and she hardly broke a sweat.

Location

Locate the obvious overhanging arete.

Protection

Is currently fixed (11/20/12) with Climb Tech perma draws. If working the route take a look at the draws and make sure the cables are not fraying. The draw on the crux bolt was removed due to 4-5 frayed ends that were super sharp and sticking out. Would cut the rope of a falling climber for sure. Don't assume fixed steel (or any) draws are totally bomber.

Easier if you skip the crux clip on redpoint.

Photos