Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Y- 12

Aftermath S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barbwire and Lingerie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born on the 4th of July S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carnivore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Druelin' Banjos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fruit Boosters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Helminthic Therapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Herbivore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Immortal KB, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Journey, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Odyssey, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Placebo Effect S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polka Freak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychowhore S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Alert S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shazam S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shoot em all S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Six Digits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider Up My Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vision Lives on, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: FA Rob Robinson FFA Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 3,844 total · 32/month
Shared By: chummer on Feb 3, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the most amazing pitches at the Obed. Steep fun laybacking takes you up to and out a roof to an overhanging prow. Crafty body position gains you a no hands rest after the roof.

Prepare to bear down for a 5 or 6 move boulder problem on some of the tweakiest tweaks at Obed. This V5 (or so) sequence blocks entrance to some of the biggest jugs on the super steep and way exposed prow. I recommend mantling up over the anchors for a sit. It was onsighted by Katie Brown and she hardly broke a sweat.

Location

Locate the obvious overhanging arete.

Protection

Is currently fixed (11/20/12) with Climb Tech perma draws. If working the route take a look at the draws and make sure the cables are not fraying. The draw on the crux bolt was removed due to 4-5 frayed ends that were super sharp and sticking out. Would cut the rope of a falling climber for sure. Don't assume fixed steel (or any) draws are totally bomber.

Easier if you skip the crux clip on redpoint.

Photos

0 Comments