Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Y- 12

Aftermath S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barbwire and Lingerie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born on the 4th of July S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carnivore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Druelin' Banjos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fruit Boosters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Helminthic Therapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Herbivore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Immortal KB, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Journey, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Odyssey, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Placebo Effect S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polka Freak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychowhore S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Alert S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shazam S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shoot em all S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Six Digits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider Up My Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vision Lives on, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jay Arp
Page Views: 893 total, 9/month
Shared By: jarthur on Mar 17, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A beautiful long line and awesome route with a great face section followed by an overhang before reaching the anchors. Take advantage of the rests before taking on the overhanging upper section. For bonus points tackle the overhang directly over the bolts instead of opting out left, it's well worth it!

Beware of the deathblock around the middle of the route before taking on the overhang. Your left foot just wants to stand right on it.

Dries quickly after a rain shower.

Location

Located past the 100-ft left of the extremely overhanging section of Y-12 known as the Vision Buttress and past the ledge system that is home to Shazam.

Protection

11 bolts and open anchor shuts.

Photos

chummer  
More traffic would clean up the dirtier lower section. Fire straight through the overhangs up high for some classic Obed jug hauling on great stone. Oct 9, 2016
Ephy Love  
 
Not a bad line, but some of the worst feeling rock at Y-12. Would be my last route of choice (of the routes that I've climbed) in this area. May 20, 2016
It's important that you follow jarthurs comment about the bolt count... The guidebook states that there are only 8 bolts. There are in fact 11 bolts on this route with drop in shuts at the top.

That was a nice little surprise yesterday when I quested up there with only ten draws. Luckily the top is bolted so closely together through the roof I was able to take off one of the lower draws to use it for the last bolt. Apr 18, 2016