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Routes in Y- 12

Aftermath S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alternator S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atomic Bomb (aka Thunderbolt) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atomic Garden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Barbwire and Lingerie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born on the 4th of July S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carnivore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty White Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Druelin' Banjos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fruit Boosters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Generator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glow in the Dark Bambi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Helminthic Therapy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Herbivore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hijacked T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Immortal KB, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Journey, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Little Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Odyssey, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Placebo Effect S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polka Freak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychowhore S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Alert S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shazam S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shoot em all S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Six Digits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider Up My Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thermal Detonator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thermal Underwear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thermal Voyager S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
True Grit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vision Lives on, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Welcome to the Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jay Arp
Page Views: 3,523 total · 36/month
Shared By: American Dankster on Nov 1, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

The guidebook description says, "Considered to be one of the best 5.12 routes in the South." Climb a face with small edges then pull the short roof. A fun diagonal rightward climb brings you to two rounded features. Climb a few moves and look up to see a jug. Spend a second deciding how many points off does it take to lundge for it. Once you execute, keep on truckin until you realize you need to bring out the guns one last time.

Location

This route starts on the ledge to the LEFT of Born on the 4th and The Vision Lives On. This is also the left most route on the ledge near a tree and small boulders. Barbwire is left of the route Tapeworm. Just to the left of Barbwire is a small cave. nice.

Protection

7 bolts, two anchor shuts thing with gates. Stick clip. One fixed draw (cleaning draw) under low roof.

Photos

Sam Stephens  
 
Fun route, good climbing on good rock, but nowhere near any of the best 5.12s in the South. Definitely worth coming for though May 30, 2016
chummer
 
chummer  
 
Truly a Y-12 classic. A very power endurancey route for Obed with a some small crimps down low and some awesome jug tugging up high. Oct 9, 2016
Kyle Townsend 1
San Francisco, California
  5.12b
Kyle Townsend 1   San Francisco, California
  5.12b
I respectfully disagree with Sam Stephens, I think Barbwire and Lingerie is an absolute must-do classic for the grade. Stellar rock quality, fairly tall, great movement, and diverse: crimpy long pulls down low, steep dynamic thuggery in the middle, and a rad boulder problem up high! What more can one ask for? Sep 11, 2018

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