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Routes in Wild West Wall

Full Term T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Master-Debater, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Milk Train T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Noises in the Night S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old School T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: S. Maciejowski, A. Pellett 2010
Page Views: 132 total · 4/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Jul 28, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A good mixed bolt and gear route right of Noises in the Night. Can be done as one pitch or two using the mid point anchor to break it up. Climb up some dirty brown rock about 15' right of Noises to a small shelf. Grab some gear (#3 camelot) and then head up to a bolt on the slabby face above. Get an optional tricam and then clip the mid point anchor (5.6 to here) and belay or continue up past another cam placement to an overlap. Move up over the overlap to a bolt and make some tricky moves up to an alien placement followed by two more bolts and then the same anchor as "noises".

Location

15' right of Noises in the Night on a sometimes wet brown slab.

Protection

60/40 bolts/gear. Bring a light rack to #3 focusing on cams.

Photos

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TSluiter
Holland, VT
TSluiter   Holland, VT
Agree with Kris, protection gets only slightly tricky sparse when you get to the meat of the climb. The first 70' is casual, as is the last 25' but the steeper section is a bit more intense than the other climbs on the same wall. Oct 2, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
  5.8 PG13
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
  5.8 PG13
Not the most G-rated lead I've done but a great climb nonetheless. Sep 24, 2015