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Routes in Wild West Wall

Full Term T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Master-Debater, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Milk Train T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Noises in the Night S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old School T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S. Maciejowski, K. Karn Fall 2010
Page Views: 842 total, 12/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Left of Noises in the Night you will find a low angle slab leading to a chossy looking short overhang with a bolt in it. This is the start of Milk Train. Climb 3 bolts past a few interesting slab moves and onto easier terrain with some gear placements in a shallow right facing corner. Bear right to a bolt as things steepen (going straight up out of the corner will put you on "Doucet Direct" variation - 5.9R). Continue slightly right up a steep headwall on bolts to face climbing with thin gear placements here and there. Find a two bolt belay on a blueberry ledge at 140'. P2. Make 5.5 moves off the belay to sporadic gear placements and more 5.5 climbing to the top of the cliff and a tree to rap off.

Location

Left side of the wild west wall just before a dirty, vegetated right facing corner.

Protection

Gear to hand sized and draws for bolts.

Photos

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Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.8 PG13
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.8 PG13
Thoughtful slab moves down low to a well bolted fun crux section in the middle. Tackle a few run out sections in the middle and upper portion of the route, though on easy ground some of the rock especially up top was less then stellar to put gear in. Rappelled from the anchors on Noises in the Night with a single 60m and stopped at the mid station on Full Term to make it to the ground. Oct 5, 2017
TSluiter
Holland, VT
TSluiter   Holland, VT
1st pitch is worth doing, fun moves and almost gym bolted where you need it. Skip the 2nd pitch IMO. Oct 2, 2016
Derek Doucet
  5.8
Derek Doucet  
  5.8
One of my finer route finding moments. Still not sure how I managed to get lost on a 140' face pitch...

The climbing straight up is actually really nice. It just needs another bolt or two to keep one from bouncing off the slab below. Apr 30, 2012