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Routes in Wild West Wall

Full Term T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Master-Debater, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Milk Train T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Noises in the Night S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old School T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: S. Maciejowski T. Peckham Fall 2009
Page Views: 1,324 total · 19/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

The bolt line in the middle of the face. Sustained 5.6-5.7 moves characterize this route. Fantastic position above the beaver ponds. Finish to bolted anchor on blueberry ledge or finish up Gardner's Delight (5.4 60') to the top of the cliff.

Location

This is the line that takes the middle of the face over the small overlap at 2/3s height. There is a bolt in a 20' high slab at the start just below a shallow bushy ledge.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Climbed this for the first time today and really enjoyed it. Yes, the bolts spacing was a little intimidating since taking a long fall on a very textured slab would be uncomfortable to put it mildly. That said, the climbing was really enjoyable with fairly sustained climbing for the grade. I actually thought some moves seemed a little harder than 5.7, but I think that was more psychological (see above about long slab falls).

The view from the top is really beautiful and at the midway point on the route you can see Mt. Mansfield to your right (climber's right). A favorite of this season so far. Aug 10, 2016
I'm glad you enjoyed this line. It is a particular favorite of mine.
I climbed this a few weeks ago and all the bolts were there. There is 10 bolts on this pitch equating to a bolt every 10-12' Yes you will take a fairly good winger if you blow a clip (I believe Derrek D could fill you in on that), but I would not consider this run out. Consider this good training for any typical NE slab pitch.... Oct 23, 2012
Enjoyed this climb today, but as I was working my way up to the overlap, I noticed how run-out it is. Afterwards, I thought back to the climb and realized that what I thought at the time were peculiar imperfections in the rock were probably blown-out bolt holes. Certainly goes at 5.6/5.7, but it becomes real serious when your mind starts churning and you realize the real potential for the 30-40 foot fall onto the ledge below... Oct 21, 2012