All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Dines Cliff > 2. Blazing Saddles

Candygram for Mongo

Name: Candygram for Mongo
Rating: 2.7

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

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Routes in 2. Blazing Saddles

L › R R › L A › Z

	11 Gallon Hat TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Agents of Entropy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Bart S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bullwhip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Campfire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Candygram for Mongo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Doc's Holiday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	For the Green Penguin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lili Von Shtupp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Mongo Like Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Penstemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Waco Kid, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
GPS:	39.50346, -105.37002
FA:	Prehmus & Launer
Page Views:	2,457 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Alan Prehmus on Jun 25, 2015
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closure: Fire Mitigation Details

Per: Zach Taylor #656, Park Manager, Staunton State Park

Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is under way:

- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven

The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Access Issue: Closure Notice - 4/9/22 Details

The area will be closed 4/9/22 to fix the trail and belay pads.

Description

From the top of the V-slot, climb the slab to the base of the crack/corner. The first 25 feet of the corner is fun 5.8 crack/corner climbing. The grade drops a bit closer to the roof.

At the roof, join Mongo Likes Crack, pull the 10c thin moves up into the hanging dihedral, and continue to the anchors.

A 10d bolted roof finish is also possible 4 feet left of corner. There is a separate anchor for this variation.

Location

This route is 50 yards up/left/West of where the Dines Cliff trail first reaches the cliff. It's a major, left-facing corner with a 6 foot roof, 70 feet.
Black Bart's wave bolts mark the next climb west from the Mongos.

Descend using the two bolt rap anchor.

Protection

A standard rack. The crux (shared with Mongo Likes Crack) can be protected with small gear (down to less than 1/2 inch). There are two glue-in Wave bolts at the top as an anchor. The only solid looking natural anchor is the big tree 30 feet above/beyond the lip.