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Routes in Area 51

Abducted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Alien Autopsy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alien Invasion T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alien Observer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Ops T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cattle Mutilation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Close Encounters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cosmic Debris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crop Circles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Death Star S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dreamland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ET (Extra Trad) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Has Landed, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Earth First (We'll Log the Other Planets Later) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Erased Memory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Event Horizon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
First Contact S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friend or Alien T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Taint Human S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lies and Deception T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Grey Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Luna S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mars S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mothership, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open the Pod Bay Door HAL T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of this World S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ponderosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Probe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resistance is Futile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocketman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roswell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shape Shifter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Solar Flair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stargate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sunspot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take Me to Your Leader T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To Boldly Bolt where No Man has Bolted Before S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
UFO S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Uranus Has Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulcan Mind Meld S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War of the Worlds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
We Are Not Alone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wormhole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Young Jedi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 256 total · 8/month
Shared By: dmPete on Jun 21, 2015
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Looking up at this intimidating, overhung offwidth crack, it might be hard to believe that "Wormhole" is only rated 5.9...but it really is.

The first 40 feet are as rough as they look. It's a grovelly haul, and the crux of the whole route comes in the first 10 feet of the climb. This first crack is a shared start with "Stargate."

Reach the ledge, shake out, walk to the back of the ledge and ascend the fantastic second half of this line. Stem, jam, use face holds, layback off the ceiling, it's all good, and it's really all there. Incredibly fun movement, and secure stances for placing big gear!

Pull the lip with a little trickery, and wedge yourself into the the widest portion of the crack 15 feet from the top. Spend a few moments worming your way up to the end, anchors on the left.

Location

Five feet to the right of "Event Horizon," just past the blunt, rounded arete. The long, offwidth crack that ends in an exaggerated overhang near the top of the wall.

Protection

Gear to 3" on the lower half, to 5" for the upper half, doubles of most would be helpful. Bolted anchors, shared with Event Horizon and Stargate.

Photos

dmPete
 
dmPete  
 
The top half of this route takes a lot of big gear. We used a 5", two 3" and one 4" cam and protected it sparingly...it could definitely take a piece or two more. This protected only from the ledge to the lip of the overhang. The last moves on the vertical face at the top could probably take a 5" or 6" cam, or you could borrow the top bolt from Event Horizon/Stargate and use a long sling.

Second half of this route is so fun it makes the slog up the first half worth doing! And it's nowhere near as tough as it looks! Jun 21, 2015

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