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Earth First (We'll Log the Other Planets Later)

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British


 Avg: 0 from 2 votes

Routes in Area 51

Abducted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Alien Autopsy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alien Invasion T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alien Observer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Ops T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cattle Mutilation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Close Encounters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cosmic Debris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crop Circles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Death Star S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dreamland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ET (Extra Trad) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Has Landed, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Earth First (We'll Log the Other Planets Later) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Erased Memory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Event Horizon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
First Contact S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friend or Alien T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Taint Human S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lies and Deception T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Grey Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Luna S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mars S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mothership, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open the Pod Bay Door HAL T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of this World S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ponderosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Probe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resistance is Futile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocketman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roswell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shape Shifter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Solar Flair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stargate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sunspot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take Me to Your Leader T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To Boldly Bolt where No Man has Bolted Before S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
UFO S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Uranus Has Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulcan Mind Meld S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War of the Worlds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
We Are Not Alone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wormhole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Young Jedi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 309 total, 8/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 27, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Right off the deck you'll realize this is another of Area 51's stiff 11's. The opening moves on overhanging blocks with bad feet and a gutsy first clipping stance give way to precise face climbing on small pocketed holds.

3/4 of the way up the route you'll be faced with a big crystally bulge to surmount. The bulge has a great feature larger than your head (that must weigh at least 50 lbs) that provides jugs for both hands. The moves up and around this overhanging bulge section are the crux...

...but wait, this feature is glued on, with a visible bead of liquid nails (?) about an inch thick all the way around it...and when you yard on it to reach the next holds, it flexes quite a bit.

Location

Near the end of the approach trail, after coming out of the shaded area where "Shape Shifter" and "Luna" are located, there's a rock outcropping. The bolt line goes up the left-facing section of this formation.

Protection

Quickdraws. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Marielle Breneman
Portland, OR
 
Marielle Breneman   Portland, OR
 
Big hold in crux is loose. If you really lunge for it, could probably blow.

Our group tried to mark it with a chalk X but the marking isn't super noticeable.

We did however find a way to still send the route.

If you traverse over to the right, you can go onto the other side of the bulge and use the crack there. Will still get you to anchors.

As long as you go to the right and do not try to use the loose hold, this climb is ok. Still not great. Jun 29, 2015
dmPete
 
dmPete  
 
THIS ROUTE IS DANGEROUS DUE TO A LARGE, CRUCIAL HOLD HAVING BEEN GLUED ON AT THE TOP. IT FLEXES WHEN USED, AND YOU HAVE TO REALLY USE IT TO MAKE THE MOVE!!!

If 11a is your grade, climb a different route...Area 51 has plenty that are better than this. Try Mothership, you'll be happier.

If you have to climb this one, warn your belayer ahead of time, and make sure he/she is wearing a helmet and is ready to duck under the overhang in the event of that jug popping loose.

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt, too. The moves off the deck will be a push for an 11a climber. Oct 27, 2014