Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 476 total · 9/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 27, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

An incredibly fun route, mostly for the bolted second half.

Straight forward crack and face trad climbing for the first half (5.9). Attain the ledge where the crack runs out.

An overhanging, ledgy bolted line follows. Great left-right movement and huge holds just a tiny bit too far apart to be easy reward you for slogging through the first half of the climb. Dynamic moves welcome but unnecessary. Have fun!!!

Location

To the right of The Mothership and up the steps into the middle of Pod #1, most of the way to the back of the belay area. Look for two vertical cracks about 2 feet apart. The larger of these two cracks extends half way up the face and ends in a ledge. The route follows this crack to the ledge and continues on bolts to the top of the cliff.

Protection

Quickdraws and cams. The upper portion of the crack can take large gear (a 5" cam will fit nicely, though you could probably adequately protect this section with nothing larger than a 3" cam). Bolted anchors.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10b
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10b
We used a single 1" cam. No real need for anything else, though you could place a 2" or 3" if you wanted. Aug 5, 2016