Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 128 total · 3/month
Shared By: dmPete on Jun 21, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Stargate has the same start as Wormhole, up the offwidth crack. At the ledge, half way up, bolt one of the anchors that are affixed there, and begin up the bolted inside face (just around the corner, and to the right of Event Horizon). Follow three bolts above the midway anchors, and then merge at the last bolt with Event Horizon. Anchors shared with Event Horizon and Wormhole.

The first few bolts of the second half of the route are spaced pretty far apart, and the crux comes early on that face. It would be pretty easy to miss the first (or second depending on how you count it) bolt and deck on the ledge.


Jammed to the right of Event Horizon and left of Wormhole. Shares the start of Wormhole and the end of Event Horizon.


Gear to 3" for the first half. Five quickdraws for the second. Shares its fifth bolt and bolted anchors with the final bolt of Event Horizon.

There is signficant possibility of injury if you miss the first bolt beyond the midway anchor. Proceed with caution!


We saw the bolt spacing of this route when climbing Lies and Deception (a fantastic 11c, much better than this one), to the right. The Oregon Rock book showed the business section of Stargate would have 7 bolts in close succession up the face. We only saw a couple, and they looked pretty spicy, with some non-trivial climbing off the deck (the first is about 10' up, and the second another 10'). It was enough to convince us to lead Event Horizon, the 11d just around the arete and sample Stargate on TR. Good choice too, as I took a fall before the first bolt, which would have certainly caused me day-ending (season-ending?) injury had I been on lead.

The climbing on Stargate is pretty decent, but it's not as good as either Wormhole or Event Horizon, and it's definitely less safe than either of those two.

We also found out that the Oregon Rock book is completely incorrect about the number of bolts on the route (or at least outdated). There's a midway anchor at chest level on the ledge, two bolts on the cruxy face, one up and around the roof of Wormhole, and a final bolt on the face that is shared with Event Horizon and is both of these two routes' last bolt. 4 bolts protect the second half of Stargate, not 7. Jun 22, 2015